A darling dress!

We here at CM are big big fans of Megan Neilsen's Brumby skirt. It's my favourite makes- it gets out of the draw at least once a week. I had some excess light weight medium denim , and hankering to try it out, it was a perfect duo.

I love that the instructions for the Darling is so straight forward. As is standard practice- I traced out the pattern on Swedish tracing paper first. I have a small chest, length wise so I normally need to adjust shoulders so I don't show boobage- I wish I had done that for this dress. More on that later..

The denim is incredibly light weight- like some of our chambray's, it was nice to work with, and could withstand a few rounds with a seam ripper (which is most important).

I wanted to slightly jazz up the whole appearance so for the neckline and the waist ties I used Cotton + Steels Bluebird. 

I also wanted to add it to the rim of the pockets but only for the edges. I didn't want to use a lot of this fabric up, if no one was going to see more than the lip. So I cut out the pockets out of the denim and then cut 4 strips of about 5 cm of the Bluebird and sew it on top. (not straight on- right sides together sewing the most inner side and the edge was sewn when the pocket was sewn into the dress),

The only time I needed to refer to Megan Nielsens tutorial (which is very good) was for the plackets. Using 2 different fabrics made it slightly more complicated (but only slightly). But plackets and I don't really get on,(just ask the Colette Negorni shirt that has languished in my sewing box with a backwards placket in the arm for the last 2 years.). But it wasn't all that bad. There were step by step pictures and short of seam ripping and re stitching about 5 times, because I couldn't get the symmetry right- and I sew wonky sometimes. It was done in no time!

I also decided to use the brightest reddest buttons we stock for this, I wanted them to pop out- I was trying to avoid it looking at all drab.

Back to small chest issues, and this is where learning how to make adjustments are a good skill to have, I should have fixed this all before I started sewing, rookie mistake- too excited. The front is now too low and I need to wear a vest under it (this is what I have to do with almost all of my dresses) and a result of my short torso,  the darts have come up too high and it looks like I have headlights (nipple showage) I'm trying to work out ways to fix it, but I have't come up with anything- I'll just attempt to unpick it and try to put them in again. I will make this dress again, but I will defiantly make up a toile for the top half first, making the v smaller and shortening the darts. 

Shoulda really spotted the problem at this stage really.....

On a note- I had finished cutting and sewing up the bodice and child walked in took a look at it and said "you could turn that into a Nelson vest" Thanks- but I had to admit, she had a point.

Taking Zinnia for a spin

I must admit this wasn't the first fabric choice that came to mind when I first decided that Colette Patterns Zinnia skirt was going to be my next project. That honour had gone to  beautiful Les Fleurs folk birds fabric in canvas. But then I was afraid  about cutting up such expensive fabric without at least test running it first. Second choice was Melody Millers Trinket Telephones in navy.

But this is where I ran into my first hurdle. The pattern layout was to be cut on the crossgrain and in the opposite direction of the print. Not being a seasoned sewist , I had an idea of how to solve the problem- but not having the confidence or ever working on the cross grain before- I was worried that if I had cut the fabric on the grainline that I would somehow mess with the structure of the skirt. 

Luckily my Colette rep is awesome and very lovely and understanding to answer my novice questions, with the above photo attached. I was told that my gut instinct was correct and it will work. I was still too scared to cut into folk birds (they did suggest that if you do use the canvas / linen that I should put a lining in also. I've never put a lining in before- bit scary)

So it was my sisters birthday and I promised her a skirt. She liked the Les Fleurs Tapestry in black- so here was my chance to do a test run before I tried the linen.

So I laid out the pattern like in the picture and then had to Frankenstein sew the corners cut from the sides to the edge to get the full coverage. Due to the busy pattern you couldn't really see where the joint was made thankfully.

Pleats went in easily, and the body of the skirt- including the brilliant pockets (using some of my table runner fabric again!) was finished really fast. But I started to look at the finished panels and thought - this is not going to get around my waist. I sized it up against the waist band and it came up too small (and I had cut the pattern a size up in parts). So out came 2 of the pleats from the two back panels and that remedied the problem.  Always check before you attach the waist band! Zip went in fine, thankfully...I don't like zips.

We come to the waist band. I'm not really a follower of instructions. The waist band instructions need a bit of concentration. It was late- so instead I winged it. I folded down the seams  by about 1/4 of an inch (old quilting ways die hard) facing the wrong side of the fabric the attached it to the raw edge of the body of the skirt and top stitched it into place. It worked, it probably doesn't look as good. 

This does cause a small problem when you have to attach the button but it would have been fine, had my machine not given me so much grief....But although millimetres off, I'm ok with that.

I'll be making the zinnia again, now I know it's quirks and it knows mine. It's an easy pattern- but may be worth doing a practice run first before you cut into your gorgeous rayon.

From runner to top magic

It all started off as a table runner. 

I should start, at the start. I bought some of Art Gallery's fabric Morse Dot in Ash by Katarina Roccella with a view to make it into to table runners for my bright carnival style wedding. It arrived in store and it was beautiful! More softer and silkier than other fabric's that are in the medium weight category (All of our Art Gallery cotton's are like this, they are lighter making them ideal for dressmaking as well as quilting). We cut up four meters of it, cut it in half , hemmed them round the edges (all the day before the gathering) and laid them out. They looked pretty awesome.

After the wedding I started to unpack all the decorations.  Pondering on what I was going to do with 8 table runners It dawned on me- after holding them up against me- that I could probably turn at least 3 of these into a simple top. I had made a beautiful top out of the Scout Tee pattern before using rayon (you can read that here). I love that pattern, so I thought I would give it another whirl. I washed them and all the wine stains came out without even needing stain remover, bonus.

I first had to sew the runners together to get the correct width. I was worried that it could look odd having a big seam running down the centre, but I think it looks fine. 

I love the ease of this pattern, I used 1.75 meters for the whole thing. You do have quite a bit of fabric left over on the sides. The nice thing about making it out of a medium weight cotton is that I can use it for any other projects. Mine normally go into scraps for quilting (I'm all about using scraps for quilting!)

It's the kind of sew you could have done in a few solid hours there are only 5 pieces to it front, back , sleeves and the neck binding. I had to redo one of my sleeves because one side wasn't as gathered as the other side- and that annoyed me. Also watch when sewing the binding on that it's wide enough to cover the raw edges. On my first go on this top my bias binding was a bit thin and after about 6 washes the binding started to come away from the top (that may also have something to do with it being made out of rayon).

We still have some of the Morse Dot Ash still left in stock , as well as the Scout tee pattern if you fancied making your own (maybe without the middle seam).

Hello Sushi!

Since the release of Cotton + Steel's 2016 Spring collection I have loved this Sushi's antique's from Sarah Watts From Porto with love range. I've been looking for a project to use this with, and my little one decided this week when she saw it that she and her Rapunzel doll both needed dress made out of it. 

I'm was looking for a quick-ish sew and I found it while having a little mooch in my sewing books. Sewing Girls Style is by Japanese pattern maker Yoshiko Tsukiori. It was first time I had used the book but glad I had picked an easy pattern, which was excitingly titled Pattern W.

Coming mainly from using independent pattern makers work for a single pattern, this one was all a bit mad. Parts of the patterns were on different sheets and all of the patterns overlap each other in no particular order. Bit of chaos but once you get used to it , it was straight forward.

I traced the pattern using Swedish tracing paper, and it was only 3 pieces (joy!) , one for the whole dress and two bits for the interfacing on the neckline. The pattern called for linen, and that is great for Autumn/Winter as it would give the dress a more a-line shaped dress. The medium weight cotton of Sushi gives it a more flowy relaxed, less formal look. I wasn't too sure if it was going to work without the stiffness but, I think it worked out great.

I finished it within an hour and a half, it was so easy and it looks so cute in the amazing cat fabric. There is a jacket that goes with this but it seemed a bit too time consuming. 

To make Rapunzel's dress I just sketched out a basic sleeveless a-line dress on some tracing paper and cut out the fabric. Placing right sides together I sewed the shoulders and the sides together. I then zigzagged around the neckline and folded and sewed the hem at the bottom. I left the armholes because it was 5 pm and I couldn't be bothered.

Once finished the dress was a bit wide so I tied some bias binding around the waist and tied it in a bow round the back. Done, I'm hoping Rapunzel liked it, it suited her.

You can see Sushi in our shop here , but we don't carry the book,  hopefully your friendly local independent book seller can help.

A carnival of patterns!

We have had a shed load of new patterns arrive in store his week, so today I'm going to introduce them to you and let you know why we are so excited about them! Lets start with Tilly and the Buttons....

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We have got in the last few releases from Tilly and the Buttons. Tilly's patterns are straight talking easy to follow patterns, which are fab for beginners. Shall we look at the 3 in a bit more detail?

The Marigold

Jumpsuits are everywhere and so on trend this summer! But if your not comfortable wearing one (like me, my legs are too short to carry it off!)  then there is also a pattern for an amazing pair of lounge pants. Tilly recommended our Cherries in Rayon fabric which we promptly sold out of, but if all the stars align, we will hopefully have it back in stock round the second week of August. The rayon is beautiful, it would be a perfect match! You can read more about the Marigold and even join the sew along over at Tilly's website!

The Orla

Isn' t this top the bee's knees?? Dress it up or down it works on all the levels. it 's been marked as a sewing skill for Improvers, So in-between beginners and intermediate. French darts give this top it's fit and it also has a dipped back to cover your derriere! This goes well with our beautiful Rayons and Lawns! High on my list of" to make" next!

The Martha

This gorgeous feminine flowy dress is perfect for every occasion ! Designed for the confident beginner this introduces you to darts, princess seams, collars and zips! Works beautifully with our rayons and lawns.

WHEN COTTON + STEEL MET COLETTE PATTERNS

Super exciting news, our favourite designers Cotton + Steel have paired up with the totes amaze Colette patterns, a match made in sewing heaven! There has not been a more exciting collaboration since Daft Punk & Nile Rogers.

Cotton+Steel have paired up their various Rayons, Lawns, Canvas fabrics with a collection of fabulous Colette Patterns to showcase C+S is more than quilting fabric.

We have a lot of these featured fabrics on order and as mentioned above if all goes well we should have everything in by the second week of August, So in anticipation,we now have in stock all of the featured patterns!  

Below are some of our coming soon rayon & lawn fabrics that would go amazing with the above patterns! If you are unfamiliar with C+S rayons and lawns they are divine! Soft and luxurious they push your dressmaking from nice make to an amazing one!  Click on each image for more information.

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You can see all of our patterns on our Colette page & all of our c+s fabrics on our store site. 

You can also read each of these amazing blogs for more details on Colette's blog & Cotton+Steel's blog, both are fab reads!

A lil tank blooms into a willow

Off to the seaside I was last weekend and I wanted to make an aptly sewn top to match the event. It was supposed to be hot (so it typically rained for the whole day) . But as with all things I was short on time , so needed something that will only take a few hours.

I picked the tiny pocket tank from Grainline Studios, now before I start on this, I will say that this pattern has now been discontinued and replaced with the Willow top & dress pattern. But for all purposes, this is about the tiny pocket tank so things may have been improved/ updated for the Willow.

I paired it up with Tossed Anchors by Dear Stella. It was hard to choose as we have quite a few different nautical themed fabrics but as this pattern has darts I was conscious of the impact of putting in a dart into a heavy patterned fabric.  I only say this because it was my first time putting in a dart, (yeah, I know- not sure why that took so long) and I really didn't want obvious pattern mash.

These patterns normally accommodate for a B cup, I'm much larger than that- but i'm too afraid to start extending cups and busts, so haven't, I just measured my bust and went from there, which for me worked out fine. ..well not really. More on that in a bit.

This is a super easy pattern, there is only 3 pieces to sew and the construction is almost identical to the Scout tee (but the scout doesn't have any darts). So I knew I had to be careful with my bias binding, but the rest of it was going to be a breeze. Inserting all the armhole bias binding went fine...but I did overstretch it a bit in the neckline..pain!

I still haven't settled on my favourite way to finish off seams, so I had wished I had finished with french seams but I made that decision too late, zig zag it was.

Back to the bust, I've got a bit of a bust, but also a short chest.  With other tops I have made I haven't made any adjustments and this hasn't been much of an issue, but with this one it was. I stupidly didn't think about my short chest (gotta stop sewing in a rush)  so once it was finished it was way too long in the front with  too much boobage on show for my liking as well as really gapey at the back, it sat like something my aunt would wear.

 It was too late for me to do any proper adjustments, so all I could do was what I do with most shop bought tops I buy, I hemmed up the seams at the top (I normally stick them in my bra). This wasn't ideal as they came in at an angle and now my armpits were tight and rubbing. I lowered it a bit and came to a compromise in top and bottom. 

I don't think it's too obvious but next time I make one I'll definitely have to adjust the top half to make it shorter (there's a new thing to learn!) but I threw a blazer over the top and it looked great. It all held together on the rollercoasters and in the non stop rain (I have a cold now boo hoo). I'll tackle the Willow in it's dress form next but I think I'll go for one of our soft chambrays  like the union...although in the bound would be amazing.... 

OK, pocket is a bit square too....

smells like Geraniums

Last week we got our first kids pattern in, yay! I find a lot of children's dress patterns a bit frumpy, a bit ruffled and a bit over the top. The Geranium by Made By Rae patterns is none of that. it's basically the Washi dress in kids version. (and without the elastic shirring!) You could have a matching set if you felt inclined. Beauty of this is you can use so many different fabric's, i love patterns where you can use medium weight quilting cotton- it just opens up the scope of possibility. 

There is 2 different versions in this pattern, it can be made into either a dress or top with three different sleeves versions and three different neckline and the option to make it ruffled or pleated.

I opted for faux capped sleeve. basic neckline and a ruffled skirt , mainly because I've done much gathering and never pleated before and the ruffled sleeves looked a bit beyond my easy, quick Saturday morning frame of mind- and pocket version.everything has to have pockets!

I've made up the biggest size, which is a 5 but it is on the smaller size (I was making it for my skinny minnie) so may need to add extra to the top bodice if need be. I used a meter and a half of the Cats heads in blue by Wee Wander Gallery, the good thing about this fabric is the heads are small enough that I didn't stress out too much about pattern matching. I can be lazy with stuff like that. 

The construction is straight forward, As usual I used the Swedish tracing paper to begin with (used on the GBSB didn't you know) The rest was a breeze, unless you count when I read the pattern wrong and closed the wrong bit of the bodice - (then lost the seam ripper for a full 20 minutes- That made me loose it). Obviously I'm an impatient person and I only ever skim pattern instructions- always resulting in unpicking, (I NEVER learn).

The funny thing about this dress is I thought it wasn't looking great through most of the sew, I thought it was looking a bit bulky and not quite right, but once I pressed it and held it up- as if by magic- it looked fab. Even inserting the buttons gave me no grief. I wanted to put in cute little pencil buttons but they protruded and it's not really the type of dress for that, plus it would just get tangled in hair.

Happy with that, There is a size 6-12 year old version available, I'm trying to get my hands on it locally (and not importing it from the U.S), So hopefully it will appear on our pattern page soon.

Other shop news.....

Tula Pink announced last week that there will be 3 new additions to her Hardware range, and we are now taking pre orders for these! They are due for release in July- so not too long now. Available will be a pair of 6" scissors, a pair of 4" micro cute scissors and left handed shears.

For all pre order information click on the images below! I'll write a more detailed entry when the stock arrives.

Sewing the Bettine

Howdy!

Well it's May and everyone has been showing off their makes, I've felt so unproductive! So today is all about my single make so far this month (were only halfway through) the Bettine by Tilly and the Buttons patterns.

We have some great budget chambray (£8 a meter!)  in our store and I debated between 3 different patterns to use it with, so I put the question to Instagram- because that's what you do in 2016 right? 

So I put it out there and it came back that I should make the Bettine, which I was glad for as I wanted an easy fast sew (I say fast.. it took a month!) . The only problem I wish I could foresee was that I ate too many biscuits between cutting the pattern and making the pattern.

I traced all my pieces using Swedish Tracing paper, and this is why I do this, as I had to re trace the size again when I messed up the bottom half. 

The bodice came together really easily and quite fast. What I really do want the more dress making I do is an overlocker, my zig zag is ok, but it really needs overlocking.

I did the pocket version , because for me a pocket is essential in all of my clothing. I like walking around looking cool and nonchalant with my hands in my pockets. The first version all came together well, and then I had to put the elastic in...but as you do, I left it, and came back to it a few weeks later (I'm terrible, to be fair the room  sew in was getting moved around so there was stuff everywhere!)

So it's a few weeks later, and I thought best to try on the pieces before I sewn it all together. The top was fine, but I wish I knew what happened (biscuits) to the bottom, because that was snug. As you can see on the picture above (the lines at the bottom are the give away). I didn't want to make the whole front panel again so I just took the back off and made it a size bigger. It worked, it looks a bit hippy. If I make it again, I'll make it less fish tail at the bottom .

This is brilliant for anyone just starting out in sewing world, there are no zips or buttons or anything like that. Although I was slightly flummoxed by how to insert the elastic, I have inserted elastic into skirts before , but for some reason I over complicated he instructions,  this was just down to me being a bit thick. Next I'd like to make this in our polka dot chambray and make it a bit more luxurious. 

In store news

We have lots of new patterns in store including the Sudley and Darling from Megan Nielsen, the Ruby by Made by Rae and our first kids patter the Geranium also Made by Rae. We will get to know them all this week. Until then enjoy the Great British Sewing Bee which kicks off this evening!

Easter sewing!

Over Easter I wanted make something using some of the great bunny fabrics we stock, although I couldn't choose between Ghost bunnies or the Moon bunnies. What I did know was that I wanted to make the Brumby from skirt. 

I gunned for the ghost bunnies after asking on instagram. For the inside pocket detail I used some of my own stash, bright pink with birds was a good contrast even if you can barley see it.

I'm always too excited when I make these kind of things, so as usual I didn't pre-wash my fabric, but being med weight cotton it was fine. But the pattern matching in the middle I probably should have thought about more. But in a weird way I like the half rabbits, like they are synchronized.

I used Swedish tracing paper again, loving that stuff! I then measured out just under a meter and a half (130cm to be exact) of the ghost bunnies for the medium size. It was so easy to whip up, I mean super easy. If it wasn't for the zip, I would say this is perfect for a beginner. Unless that beginner wants to learn how to put in a zip.

The instructions were straight forward, but perhaps made some of the steps sound a little more complicated then they actually were. The pockets were fun to make and easy.

 It sits really well, I didn't have any difficulty with the gathering or anything like that. It was a straight forward delightful pattern that I'll make again.  

You can get the brumby here!

...and in cross stitching world

Sally is coming along really well, it's coming along quicker than expected!

Wish list makes and cross stitching joy!

Hello again!

This week I've been making lists of stuff I am desperate to make if only there were more hours in the day. These patterns look me over and the yell at me, "C'mon and make me! You know you want to!!" . Yes, very much so lovely patterns is normally my reply. These are what yelling at me the loudest at the moment, and oh boy can they scream!

I've been in love with the House of Wales Plaid, it's everywhere at the moment and I can't  think of a more prefect dress than the Hawthorn for an awesome look. 

But the other thing it would go amazing with is the beautiful Archer

I would also love love love to make this in the shot cotton in bordeaux, it has such an amazing feel and unique look to it, a very chic 70's shirt is to be had.

The most pressing pattern though, is a blazer for spring. I can't decide between the Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio or the Victoria from By Hand London.  I have some wonderful Ponte di roma in black as pictured here and in a marl grey. I think it's just going to have to be one of each.

Cross stitch joy!

Sally from the Crafty Mastermind family hasn't picked up cross stitch for about 20 years. She has started on Emily Peacock & Rob Ryan collaboration  Give Me Work .So to show you all how easy it is to pick up these fab cross stitch set's ,Sally will be keeping us up to date with her progress each week or so, (so no pressure then)

I was given a "Give Me Work " tapestry kit by Emily Peacock last Christmas. The design is specially commissioned exclusively by Rob Ryan, it's very beautiful and detailed. The kit comes beautifully packaged in a gift bag with tapestry, wool, needles and instructions with website links and help online from Emily.

I haven't completed any cross stitch for many years so after a few 'you tube' session refreshers began my kit.

I CANT PUT IT DOWN ,it's very addictive and amazing to be putting on tapestry such a great artists design I'M LOVING IT! I'm particularly enjoying watching the picture come together lots of little details and amazing colours the cross stitch pattern is really easy to follow and even though I have not done a tapestry with wool I am managing really well. 

There will be more to follow in the next coming weeks on Sally's progress.

Thats all for now, until next time share the love of your makes and tell everyone about our free delivery promotion!

Whats new pussycat?

Well it's been a crazy 6 weeks! A lot of hard work and late nights! I'd like to thank everyone who has visited the shop followed us on the various social media networks and have been generally lovely to us. The feedback has been a-maz-ing!

Now to what new stuff have arrived in the store...  firstly a focus on Victory dressmaking patterns from Canada, modern, cool and chic!

The Anouk is either a dress or skirt for intermediate skills. Its loose fitting sleeveless sweet number with a bow at the back for that extra feminine touch. The blouse has the the option of putting in bishop sleeves for what reminds me of the renaissance look.  The cute panel at the front top off this awesome look. You could pair this up with these brilliant fabrics 

The Chloe is a chic A line shape dress, and isn't it a beaut! Features angled front seams and optional button detailing, along with inseam pockets. The back features princess seams and centre back zipper closure.  Choose between sleeveless or capped sleeves. All you need is a cute jackets and some boots and this look would be perfect!

Fabrics that would work well with this are

The Madeleine is amazing! A big skirt with beautiful deep pockets that you can wear with or without the suspenders . Match it with a striped top or light blouse, which ever way you wear it it will be chic! This feels really Annie Hall / Diane Keaton in the 70's This will help you expand your skills in zip and button inserting. 

Fabrics that would work with this beautiful pattern...

LANDED FABRICS

Stag heads in gold and blue by Enchino made by Kokka

Do you need some new cushions, or a new throw? These lovely Jacquards are massive and would be a feature on your sofa or anywhere else in the house. These will reappear on the blog shortly as there are projects in the works!

My oh my when this beautiful sateen landed it was even better than I could have imagined. It's soft and silky feeling without having the difficult silky element when sewing with it. I would go so well with so many of our patterns like the Bettine, the Scout tee or the tiny pocket top.

Thats all for today peeps! 

Hello and welcome to the world of the Crafty Mastermind!

Here we are!

Its been quite a journey to get here but we are now open! Unbelievably when I first started my tiny blog The Crafty Mastermind, adventures in sewing and sound a  few years back, I never thought in 100 million years I would open a store. No way in this freaking universe. But sometimes the universe kicks you up the arse and gives you a couple of good ideas. 

Other times the internet universe makes you want to cry. This happened when I took a break from quilting and went into the scary world of dressmaking. I found it so frustrating to the point of little tears. I had no idea about all the different kinds of fabric, I didn't know about drape or well ...anything. I loved patterns and wanted to make them so much, but I didn't know what was suitable or what sewing needles I needed or if that thread was ok, and so forth. I was self taught because local classes were expensive, not a bit expensive, like freaking loads.

Armed with a Tilly and the buttons book I went bravely into the world, made quite a few rookie fabric buying mistakes, made a brilliant skirt  and realised this was all so much harder than quilting.  Cue in the good idea.

I'm hoping I have built a website that has made life easier for anyone taking baby steps into the world of sewing , or those of you who go fabric blind going through pages and pages of fabric not knowing if it would even look cool with your project. It's been a labour of love for the greater good. My eyes are tired and I know these patterns better than my closest friends.

Did I mention I have a bit of a fabric obsession too? I wish I could name the periodic table the way I can recall fabric ranges. It's a love affair between me and my fabric . Problem was, the fabric I loved I was having trouble finding in the UK , some of it was from older seasons and some of it I just couldn't find anywhere except overseas. So I've had enough of that!

I've tried to fill my store up with things not necessarily available everywhere, but all freaking awesome. I would use every single one of my fabrics happily. They are the most rockin' fabrics around.

Most importantly, above all we want to be the best in customer service, full stop. You need any sort of help or advice, ask a question, whatever it is we will answer you promptly and without any hassle. You have come to visit our site so your already awesome,we're going to treat you as such. Your a champion!

The aim of this blog is to keep you all updated with what were doing in the shop, sewing projects were creating, announcing new stock that arrives, other exciting things going on or if were just chillin' and dancing. Please sign up to our newsletter ,we wont inundate you, we will keep it to weekly..there or thereabouts. It would be awesome if you also joined us on our various social media sites too like Instagram, Pintrest, Twitter and Facebook. You can also listen to our Spotify playlist & immerse yourself into a virtual shopping experience!

I hope we have brought the cool into sewing. Taking out the twee and making it more rock n roll.

Melissa