Off to the seaside I was last weekend and I wanted to make an aptly sewn top to match the event. It was supposed to be hot (so it typically rained for the whole day) . But as with all things I was short on time , so needed something that will only take a few hours.
I picked the tiny pocket tank from Grainline Studios, now before I start on this, I will say that this pattern has now been discontinued and replaced with the Willow top & dress pattern. But for all purposes, this is about the tiny pocket tank so things may have been improved/ updated for the Willow.
I paired it up with Tossed Anchors by Dear Stella. It was hard to choose as we have quite a few different nautical themed fabrics but as this pattern has darts I was conscious of the impact of putting in a dart into a heavy patterned fabric. I only say this because it was my first time putting in a dart, (yeah, I know- not sure why that took so long) and I really didn't want obvious pattern mash.
These patterns normally accommodate for a B cup, I'm much larger than that- but i'm too afraid to start extending cups and busts, so haven't, I just measured my bust and went from there, which for me worked out fine. ..well not really. More on that in a bit.
This is a super easy pattern, there is only 3 pieces to sew and the construction is almost identical to the Scout tee (but the scout doesn't have any darts). So I knew I had to be careful with my bias binding, but the rest of it was going to be a breeze. Inserting all the armhole bias binding went fine...but I did overstretch it a bit in the neckline..pain!
I still haven't settled on my favourite way to finish off seams, so I had wished I had finished with french seams but I made that decision too late, zig zag it was.
Back to the bust, I've got a bit of a bust, but also a short chest. With other tops I have made I haven't made any adjustments and this hasn't been much of an issue, but with this one it was. I stupidly didn't think about my short chest (gotta stop sewing in a rush) so once it was finished it was way too long in the front with too much boobage on show for my liking as well as really gapey at the back, it sat like something my aunt would wear.
It was too late for me to do any proper adjustments, so all I could do was what I do with most shop bought tops I buy, I hemmed up the seams at the top (I normally stick them in my bra). This wasn't ideal as they came in at an angle and now my armpits were tight and rubbing. I lowered it a bit and came to a compromise in top and bottom.
I don't think it's too obvious but next time I make one I'll definitely have to adjust the top half to make it shorter (there's a new thing to learn!) but I threw a blazer over the top and it looked great. It all held together on the rollercoasters and in the non stop rain (I have a cold now boo hoo). I'll tackle the Willow in it's dress form next but I think I'll go for one of our soft chambrays like the union...although in the bound would be amazing....
OK, pocket is a bit square too....