Taking Zinnia for a spin

I must admit this wasn't the first fabric choice that came to mind when I first decided that Colette Patterns Zinnia skirt was going to be my next project. That honour had gone to  beautiful Les Fleurs folk birds fabric in canvas. But then I was afraid  about cutting up such expensive fabric without at least test running it first. Second choice was Melody Millers Trinket Telephones in navy.

But this is where I ran into my first hurdle. The pattern layout was to be cut on the crossgrain and in the opposite direction of the print. Not being a seasoned sewist , I had an idea of how to solve the problem- but not having the confidence or ever working on the cross grain before- I was worried that if I had cut the fabric on the grainline that I would somehow mess with the structure of the skirt. 

Luckily my Colette rep is awesome and very lovely and understanding to answer my novice questions, with the above photo attached. I was told that my gut instinct was correct and it will work. I was still too scared to cut into folk birds (they did suggest that if you do use the canvas / linen that I should put a lining in also. I've never put a lining in before- bit scary)

So it was my sisters birthday and I promised her a skirt. She liked the Les Fleurs Tapestry in black- so here was my chance to do a test run before I tried the linen.

So I laid out the pattern like in the picture and then had to Frankenstein sew the corners cut from the sides to the edge to get the full coverage. Due to the busy pattern you couldn't really see where the joint was made thankfully.

Pleats went in easily, and the body of the skirt- including the brilliant pockets (using some of my table runner fabric again!) was finished really fast. But I started to look at the finished panels and thought - this is not going to get around my waist. I sized it up against the waist band and it came up too small (and I had cut the pattern a size up in parts). So out came 2 of the pleats from the two back panels and that remedied the problem.  Always check before you attach the waist band! Zip went in fine, thankfully...I don't like zips.

We come to the waist band. I'm not really a follower of instructions. The waist band instructions need a bit of concentration. It was late- so instead I winged it. I folded down the seams  by about 1/4 of an inch (old quilting ways die hard) facing the wrong side of the fabric the attached it to the raw edge of the body of the skirt and top stitched it into place. It worked, it probably doesn't look as good. 

This does cause a small problem when you have to attach the button but it would have been fine, had my machine not given me so much grief....But although millimetres off, I'm ok with that.

I'll be making the zinnia again, now I know it's quirks and it knows mine. It's an easy pattern- but may be worth doing a practice run first before you cut into your gorgeous rayon.

Sewing the Bettine

Howdy!

Well it's May and everyone has been showing off their makes, I've felt so unproductive! So today is all about my single make so far this month (were only halfway through) the Bettine by Tilly and the Buttons patterns.

We have some great budget chambray (£8 a meter!)  in our store and I debated between 3 different patterns to use it with, so I put the question to Instagram- because that's what you do in 2016 right? 

So I put it out there and it came back that I should make the Bettine, which I was glad for as I wanted an easy fast sew (I say fast.. it took a month!) . The only problem I wish I could foresee was that I ate too many biscuits between cutting the pattern and making the pattern.

I traced all my pieces using Swedish Tracing paper, and this is why I do this, as I had to re trace the size again when I messed up the bottom half. 

The bodice came together really easily and quite fast. What I really do want the more dress making I do is an overlocker, my zig zag is ok, but it really needs overlocking.

I did the pocket version , because for me a pocket is essential in all of my clothing. I like walking around looking cool and nonchalant with my hands in my pockets. The first version all came together well, and then I had to put the elastic in...but as you do, I left it, and came back to it a few weeks later (I'm terrible, to be fair the room  sew in was getting moved around so there was stuff everywhere!)

So it's a few weeks later, and I thought best to try on the pieces before I sewn it all together. The top was fine, but I wish I knew what happened (biscuits) to the bottom, because that was snug. As you can see on the picture above (the lines at the bottom are the give away). I didn't want to make the whole front panel again so I just took the back off and made it a size bigger. It worked, it looks a bit hippy. If I make it again, I'll make it less fish tail at the bottom .

This is brilliant for anyone just starting out in sewing world, there are no zips or buttons or anything like that. Although I was slightly flummoxed by how to insert the elastic, I have inserted elastic into skirts before , but for some reason I over complicated he instructions,  this was just down to me being a bit thick. Next I'd like to make this in our polka dot chambray and make it a bit more luxurious. 

In store news

We have lots of new patterns in store including the Sudley and Darling from Megan Nielsen, the Ruby by Made by Rae and our first kids patter the Geranium also Made by Rae. We will get to know them all this week. Until then enjoy the Great British Sewing Bee which kicks off this evening!